Martin Walker’s Training Blog

Off to Nepal

Fri, 25 Apr 2008 21:49:05 -0700

Off to Nepal today.

Flying to LA tonight, then Bangkok, then Kathmandu...

Our itinerary is as follows:

DAY 1. April 28 ~ Arrive In Kathmandu
The Malla Hotel.
DAY 2. April 29 ~ Explore Kathmandu
Following breakfast, we will spend the morning attending CME lectures at our hotel. In the afternoon, Kathmandu is ours to explore. Kathmandu is one of three former medieval city-states in the Valley, along with Bhaktapur and Patan. By western standards, the city is intimate. You can visit the many interesting sights, shrines, and markets, or stroll in Kathmandu's fascinating Asan Tole bazaar. Don't miss Durbar Square, Thamel, Swayambhunath (the "Monkey Temple," overlooking the entire Valley) and the King's Palace. Brief CME lecture before dinner. Overnight at Malla Hotel.
DAY 3. April 30 ~ Mountain flight to Lukla and begin trek
Transfer to the airport for the mountain flight to Lukla airstrip (weather permitting). During the short but spectacular flight we will leave the Kathmandu Valley and head into the Himalaya, the world's highest mountains rising before you. . Our first camp will be at 8,900' near Phakding, along the rushing Dudh Kosi. (3-4 hours hiking.)
DAY 4. May 1 ~ Namche Bazaar (11,270')
The trail continues north up the Dudh Kosi valley. Camp in Namche Bazaar. (5-6 hours hiking.)
DAY 5. May 2 ~ Rest day around Namche Bazaar to enjoy local excursions
A rest day in Namche Bazaar for acclimatization, with a number of local excursions.
DAY 6. May 3 ~ Khumjung (12,475')
Late morning hike to the lovely village of Khumjung, with its views of Ama Dablam. Sir Edmund Hillary established a school in Khumjung. (2 hours hiking.)
DAY 7. May 4 ~ Tengboche (12,680')
Descend into the deep Dudh Kosi Gorge and ascend the other side—one of the most beautiful valley walks on earth—to camp in the lovely meadows around Tengboche Monastery,. Camp overnight near the monastery. (5-6 hours hiking.)
DAY 8. May 5 ~ Labarma (14,500')
Hike down through a beautiful forest, cross the Imja Khola, and pass through the village of Pangboche. Here we'll descend for a short bit, cross a wooden bridge, then hike up beautiful pastures to an area called Labarma, a summer pasture for yaks. From here we'll have beautiful views of the Nuptse/Lhotse wall, Pumori, and Everest. (5 hours hiking.)
DAY 9. May 6 ~ Ama Dablam Base Camp – Dingboche
Morning hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp (15,700'), set in a beautiful meadow with stunning views of the mountain. Retrace our steps back to Pangboche, then follow a route through summer pastures to the large village of Dingboche (14,500'). (7-8 hours hiking.) (B,L,D)
DAY 10. May 7 - My Birthday!! ~ Lobuje (16,200')
Hike up along the broad valley floor to Dughla (15,100'), where we stop for lunch, then continue to the yak grazing pastures at Lobuje. (5-6 hours hiking.) (B,L,D)
DAY 11. May 8 ~ Gorak Shep (17,000')
Walk along boulder fields and glacial debris to the edge of the Khumbu Glacier then continue up to Gorak Shep, nestled under the snow-coned summit of Pumori (23,442') and the sheer west face of Nuptse (25,850'). (2-4 hours hiking.) If we are well acclimatized, we can hike up Kala Patar (18,192'), high above the Khumbu Glacier, for a dramatic close-up view of Everest.
DAY 12. May 9 ~ Everest Base Camp
Time and weather permitting, we can make an optional hike up to Everest Base Camp (17,600') for views of the Khumbu Icefall. Return to Lobuje (16,200'). (9-10 hours hiking.)
DAY 13. May 10 ~ Pangboche
An easy walk down the Imja Khola with a visit to the gompa at Pangboche (12,661'). Camp overnight near the monastery. (5 hours hiking.)
DAY 14. May 11 ~ Namche Bazaar (11,270')
A steep descent to the Dudh Kosi and another climb up to Namche Bazaar. (5-6 hours hiking.)
DAY 15. May 12 ~ Return to Lukla (9,200')
A long but leisurely trek down the Dudh Kosi to Lukla, passing the village of Phakding en route. (8 hours hiking)
DAY 16. May 13 ~ Return to Kathmandu
*Fly to Kathmandu (weather permitting!). Upon arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel. Overnight at Malla Hotel or similar hotel.

*The next day will be spent either in Kathmandu or Lukla, depending on our luck with the Lukla flight. Flights in and out of this tiny mountain airstrip are commonly delayed and we have no way of predicting the length of the delay; it's something we just have to live with. With luck we'll get out the first day. We cannot overemphasize the unreliability of these flights.

DAY 17. May 14 ~ Kathmandu
If the Lukla flight is not delayed, we'll have a morning tour of the Hindu shrines at Pashupatinath on the Bagmati River and the large Buddhist stupa at Bodhnath, center of the Tibetan Buddhist culture in Kathmandu. The afternoon is free to relax or do some last minute shopping or sightseeing on our own. Overnight at Malla Hotel or similar hotel (B,D)
DAY 18. May 15 ~ Fly home
Transfer to airport and depart Kathmandu on homeward-bound flights to Bangkok then LA the Seattle - arriving back Friday mid day.

Snow Shoeing up Mount Si

Sun, 20 Apr 2008 19:43:32 -0700

After the latest snow fall in Seattle history, Peter Wall, Max and I decided to tackle Mt Si. It was a great opportunity to hike with heavy packs in the snow - trying out crampons and snow shoes for the first time this season.

This is also the last hike before we fly to Nepal and I was interested to see how Max would do - given his slender frame and irregular exercise habits. In the end he beat us both to the top and back down to the car again!

It was a great day for a hike - with sun at the summit for our lunch :)

First Hike of the 2008 Season - Little Si

Sat, 15 Mar 2008 16:39:47 -0700

In preparation for the season, Max and I joined the Climb for Clean Air Crew for a quick jaunt up Little Si. I forgot my camera so the only photo I have is above! Max actually enjoyed the hike, despite the photo!

We are both off to Nepal to trek from Lukla to Everest in April, so this was a gear-test for Max....

Mt Rainier Summit attempt

Sat, 14 Jul 2007 17:50:53 -0700

I just got back from Ashford - the traffic is brutal! Anyone asking their family down next Friday for the banquet - allow 4 hours from Seattle!

So, what an experience! We were turned around just short of the high break for lightening and high winds. We were all OK with the decision by that point as we were being blown off the trail regularly and keeping balance was quite hard. The freezing level was above 15,000 feet, so the snow was slushy and soft - wouldn't hold a step, and the ice axe just went down to the head whenever we planted it - all in all, a bit of a challenge.

We started off from Muir at 12:00 MN - it was warm and clear. There were 6 in our group - me, Steve, Kathy, Barb and Corey, plus Mike (non-ALA). We were in 3 teams with Win Whittaker in the lead with Mike and Corey, Guide Andreas with Barb and Kathy, and Guide Paul with Steve and I.

The traverse across the Cowlitz glacier was pleasant, getting used to rope travel (hint: good thing to practice for next time - traveling in a rope team with crampons - quite a different experience). Cathedral Gap was a challenging scramble, but fairly short (another training hint: Add some scrambles - scrambling skills are required). We then climb/traversed to the Ingraham Flats where we took our first break. Steve and Mike turned back at that point and Andreas took them down.

After 15 minutes we started for the Cleaver. That is a tough steep climb - scrambling at first, then steep traverses - but it went quickly. Kathy's advice to "just relax" was what got me through that (Kathy and I were on the same rope team at that point, with Paul. Corey and Barb were with Win). We rested at the top of the Cleaver (1 hour and 40 minutes from the first stop). By this time we could easily see lightening coming towards the mountain, but were hoping it was going to miss us. It was clearly concerning Win, as he was planning what to do if we had to "run off the mountain", and he persuaded Kathy to turn back at that point because of her pre-existing knee problems. Kathy was great coming up the Cleaver - very strong. I have no doubt that she could have made it to the top if she had stayed. I was then alone with Paul on a rope, and Barb and Corey stayed with Win.

I can tell you that choking down a power bar at that rest stop was the last thing I wanted to do - it tasted like cardboard, but I knew I had to eat something. The Cliff Shot Blocks went down a LOT easier and those are what I will take the next time.

After that break we started over the ice fall at the top of the Eammons Glacier. We jumped some scary crevasses and walked along some very exposed trails, then started a series of short steep switch-backs (mailbox peak type steep). The wind was really picking up (maybe 50 mph) and the lightening was getting closer. In addition we could see a major storm cloud moving onto the summit. I think it is fair to say that we were all working hard to stay on our feet and it was taking a lot of energy that we really needed for the ascent.

At 13,200 feet, Win reeled us in and asked me if I was getting a bit knocked about. I admit that I thought that maybe these conditions were "normal" for the mountain and was worried that he was going to "spin me" back down, but he told us that he was getting blown off the trail, and so was Paul, and that the storm was just too dangerous, so he was calling it. None of us protested (Barb said "I just want to live").

The trip down was quick and relatively easy - my knees still hurt though (and I have never had any knee problems) - so in retrospect, Win's call to ask Kathy to descend was a good one I think.

As we descended, the sun came up. That made all of the effort worth it in my opinion. I will post the photos on my blog tonight. Later we ran into hail and high winds. About 1 hour after turning, lightning was striking the summit - good call! Seeing the terrain in the daylight as we returned made me glad we had ascended in the dark - just put one f***g foot in front of another!

We cruised into Muir and rested while a storm passed over us. Then we descended into a hot and sunny Paradise.

All in all, the upper mountain is beautiful and terrifying, and I felt really privileged to have seen it - even if we didn't make the summit. To all of you waiting to go up - good luck, relax and have fun - you will have a blast. The guides were great and take the worry out of it for you (they call themselves "professional worriers").

Bluebird day at Muir

Sat, 7 Jul 2007 22:56:59 -0700

A 9:00 AM start and a wonderful bluebird day up to Muir. A big change from the last time when we were turned around by the weather!

Muir is at 10,100 feet and the views are spectacular, as you will see from the photo page (link below).

This is my last long hike before the actual climb, so wish me luck for next week..